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Lightning and Grounding

NOTE: The following applies to ham radio, CB, shortwave listening, TV, stereo, satellite, anything that has an outside antenna system. It may also apply to your phone service - check with your local codes and phone company for their requirements.

Lightning energy is massive! We're talking about discharges that travel many miles. Even though the arc diameter is about the size of your finger, it contains extremely high voltages at very high currents.

Let's ignore for a moment lightning energy that travels on the power-carrying conductors, and concentrate on energy in the grounding conductors. Consider a bolt of lightning that hits power company equipment a short distance away from your house (where the energy is carried by the power company's grounding system). As good as their grounding system is, some of that energy will still be looking for better ways to get to ground. If you have an antenna connected to a separate ground rod, enough energy could travel through your equipment to your antenna ground to damage your equipment, or even start a fire. Permanently connecting (bonding) your antenna ground to your power ground will give most of that energy a route around your equipment.

The reverse is obviously true if lightning energy is on your ham station ground; it will travel through your equipment on its way to the power company's ground.

The preferred place to do the bonding is outdoors. You want to keep as much of lightning's energy outdoors as possible!!

A place to start to eliminate the ZAP


No sharp 90 degree bends!!! Energy in lightning does not like to change direction abruptly. I have run service calls where wiring (including normally sufficient grounding conductors) has been blown totally out at nice, sharp, neat 90° bends by a lightning strike. Simply make the bends gradual.

Do not use solder to make connections!! Energy passing through the connection will heat it up and blow molten solder all over the place. Plus, the connection will not be nearly as good without using approved connectors.

Check your local electrical codes for the locally approved way to bond your grounds. Also, check your local codes for the approved way to ground your antennas. Most areas do not approve the short (four foot long) ground rods. Many areas also specify whether galvanized or copper clad ground rods (or some other type) are to be used. Some areas may require more than one ground rod to be used, as well as how far apart they must be. They will also tell you what size wire to use, as well as the type of clamp to use. Most areas I know of also do not permit grounding connections to be buried unless the connection is done by certain methods. The obvious reason is that the connections should be inspected frequently. Also, corrosion may be increased by burial (also hidden from view!!). The local codes take soil types into account, too. Some areas may restrict how close the ground rods can be placed to your foundation to prevent possible foundation damage from a discharge.

Again, visit your local code enforcement office. They are there to help, and they would prefer to help and not be the 'heavies'! All code enforcement offices I have dealt with are very happy to give me a stack of photocopied instructions that deal with how things should be done in your area.

Bottom line? Do not cut corners! Your life, the lives of your loved ones are at risk if you do cut corners. Also, you run a greater risk of destroying property. Do not fall prey to taking the "easy" route or the "cheaper" route. It may be harder and more expensive later on.


DISCLAIMER

This is intended as a starting point, not a definitive discussion of grounding and bonding. Contact your local code enforcement office for the approved method in your area.